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| Glossary of Terms |
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Ari
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Awl-like hooked needle, often used for chain stitch
embroidery |
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Badla
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Flattened gold or silver wire |
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Badla Mukaish
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Knots of badla sewn onto cloth |
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Baluchar
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A type of brocaded silk sari |
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Bandgala
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Achkan and shervani (lit. 'closed neck') |
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Bandhini
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The mode of tie-dyeing fabrics to form patterns (also
known as bandhej) |
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Batik
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A paste or wax resist dyeing technique |
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Bel
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A stylized creeper pattern |
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Buti
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A smaller version of a buta the term is used also
to denote stylized animal motifs printed in block repeats |
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Chikankari
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White embroidery, predominantly floral patterns,
executed on fine white cotton with untwisted threads of white
cotton or silk |
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Choli
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A woman's blouse or bodice usually tight-fitting |
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Chunari
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A tie-dyed dotted pattern, a veil |
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Chunnat
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Pleated or crimped gota ribbon |
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Churidar paijama
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Style of tight-fitting paijama, rouched from the
knee to the ankles (lit. the paijama with bangles) |
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Dhoti
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An unstitched garment used to drape the lower body,
very much in use today |
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Dori
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A cord |
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Dupatta
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An unstitched length of material for the upper body
traditionally worn by both sexes, but now mainly worn by women
as part of a salwar kameez (paijama and tunic) ensemble |
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Farshi
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A wide legged trailing paijama |
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Ganga Jamuna
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The juxtaposition of silver and gold in a woven pattern,
named after the confluence of dark and light waters of the two
sacred rivers |
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Ghaghra
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A gathered skirt usually very flared |
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Ghera
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Circumference, fullness of a garment |
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Ghundi
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A button made of silk or cotton, sometimes covered
with gold or silver wire, held together with a loop |
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Gota
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A metallic ribbon in which badla forms the weft and
silk or cotton the wrap |
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Gota Moti
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A beaded cord covered with gota, often used for finishing
ghaghra and jama hems |
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Gota Patti
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Small leaf shapes made of gota |
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Gote
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The bottom part of a farshi paijama which is made
up of three sections, often richly embellished |
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Ikkat
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The name of the pattern created by the tie-dyeing
the weft and wrap threads before weaving which is a specially
of Gujarat Orissa and Andhra Pradesh |
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Izarband
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The decorative drawstring at the waist of a lower
garment, usually a ghaghra or a paijama with ornamented tasseled
ends |
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Jaal
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An all over pattern in a printed or embroidered fabric |
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Jamavar
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The trade name for the woven or embroidered Kashmir
shawls |
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Jamdaani
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A weaving technique traditional to the town of Tanda,
Jais and Dacca used to produce figured muslins |
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Jhoomar
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A jewelled hair ornament worn on the side of the
head |
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Jhumka
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A bell-shaped piece of jewelry |
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Juthis
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Slip on shoes, usually elaborated embroidery and
with unturned toes |
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Kalamkari
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Painted cloth (as a trade term it referred to both
painted and printed cloths) |
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Kali
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A gored panel |
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Kameez
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A tunic |
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Khaadi
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Fabric made of handspun yarns, symbol of India's
fight for Independent |
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Kurta
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A loose, stitched garment worn by men and women,
most commonly described as a tunic (also known as a kameez) |
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Kurti
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A short kurta usually worn by women a type of grass
fiber) |
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Lahariya
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A pattern in which diagonal wavy stripes are formed
by the fold-resist dyeing technique of the same name |
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Lehnga
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A skirt |
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Libaas
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An ensemble or dress |
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Minakari
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Coloured enamel jewelry, borders or butis woven with
different colored silk to give the appearance of enamel |
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Moti
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A bead or pearl |
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Mulmul
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Cotton, usually in reference to Indian muslin, particularly
the muslin woven in Bengal |
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Odhini
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A veil, usually 3m x 1m, worn by women with a ghaghra,
kurti and kanchli, it covers the head and the right shoulder,
is drawn across the body and either tucked into the waistband
or left hanging in front |
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Paijama
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Drawstring trousers worn by men and women with many
different styles |
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Pallav
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The decorative border at one or both ends of a length
of fabric usually of a sari, odhani or patka |
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Pashmina
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The wool made from the fleece of the underbelly of
the rare Tibetan wild mountain goat |
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Patti
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A border or edging |
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Phulkari
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Folk embroidery typical of the Punjab |
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Poncha
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The ankle opening of a paijama, usually the salwar,
which is often quilted or ornamented with decorative stitching
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Sari
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An unstitched length of
fabric up to 9 yds in length and 18 to 60 in width with a decorated
end panel draped in a wide variety of styles |
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Shatoosh
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The fleece of the Tibetan chiru antelope that is
spun and woven into fine shawls |
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Shal
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A shawl |
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Salwar Paijama
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A baggy style of paijama tapered at the ankle worn
mainly in the Punjab, Afghanistan and African garment |
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Shervani
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A formal knee-length coat fitted to the waist |
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Sitara
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Tiny metal discs, often of gold or silver with a
tiny hole at the center |
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Tanchoi
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Figured silk with multiple supplementary weft threads,
that create a heavy densely patterned fabric |
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Tikka
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A forehead ornament also used to refer to a bindi |
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Tikki / Tikki Embroidery
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Metal discs used in zardozi embroidery |
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| Tussar
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A type of wild silk made in Eastern and Central India
from hand spun yarns |
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| Vastra
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Clothes |
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Zardozi
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Gold thread embroidery using metallic elements and
threads, sometimes mirrors, precious or semi precious stones |
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Zari
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Metal wrapped yarn used for zardozi embroidery |
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